Exfoliation 101: Chemical vs Physical
Exfoliation is one of the most important, and misunderstood, steps in any skincare routine. Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. When done correctly, it reveals a brighter, smoother complexion, helps unclog pores, and allows your skincare products to absorb better. There are two types of exfoliation: physical and chemical. Physical, or mechanical exfoliants use a scrub or tool to manually slough away dead skin. The benefits to this type of exfoliation is the evening of texture, immediate smoothing and removal of rough/dry skin! This type of exfoliation can also be detrimental to your skin health if used improperly. Some cons to physical exfoliants include the risk of irritation or damage if overused, and that its absolutely not ideal for acne, rosacea or sensitive skin types. physically exfoliating skin with these conditions will not only exacerbate these issues, but it will also lead to a compromised barrier.
On the other hand, chemical exfoliants use active ingredients like AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) to dissolve dead skin cells so, no scrubbing needed. Common chemical exfoliants include glycolic, lactic, salicylic and mandelic acids. The benefits include deeper penetration into the skin, it targets fine lines, acne, and hyperpigmentation, and its ideal for all skin types including sensitive or aging skin! The cons associated with this type of exfoliating are that they can cause redness and irritation if over used, increased sun sensitivity and the risk of purging.
How do I use these techniques in my facials?
As an esthetician offering custom facials, I assess your skin before choosing the right exfoliation method. Here's how I tailor treatments; for sensitive skin, I typically use enzyme exfoliants which are a gentler form of chemical exfoliation. For acne-prone or congested skin, I may reach for a light chemical peel or salicylic acid exfoliant. For those needing a quick skin refresh or those with more resilient skin, I sometimes use a gentle physical scrub. However, this is a very broad outline and every client’s skin is different and treated as such.
